CT Day 27: Approaching Marshall Pass

We started again in the early afternoon from the Monarch Mountain Lodge. 10 miles into the hike though, I was hurting.... bad. While my one ankle had been bothering me for quite some time, it wasn't getting worse. So I figured I'd keep an eye on it and hope it either got better or somehow let me finish the trail. But somewhere during Segment 15 of the CT, I wrenched my OTHER ankle. Now I was leaning far more heavily on my (supposedly) weaker ankle!

Suffice it to say, I was a hurting unit, and my temperament probably reflected the pain my feet had me in. That most terrible of scenarios I dreaded since before passing through Twin Lakes almost 80 miles prior had now finally presented itself. Malfunctioning ankles were now forcing me off the trail. Almost as bad, the pain was preventing me from enjoying one of the better segments of the trail. We spent over half a mile wading through a field of wildflowers and I struggled to enjoy any of it.

I was noticeably slowing down as we crossed the Continental Divide and again reached the CT/CDT junction. It proved to be an eerie moonscape covered in fog. But despite our fantastic surroundings, both Dave and myself were growing more concerned about my injuries. Nearly every step I took proved painful and my hobbling and limping down the trail, as I leaned on my trekking poles certainly couldn't have been healthy for my stride. Like a snowball rolling downhill, things were quickly deteriorating for my feet.
So we camped a little early that day, in a lean-to shelter near the Green's Creek Trail about 10 miles in. It lies about three miles after gaining the Divide. Dave and I spent most of the night discussing the situation (mostly me yelling and complaining about all the work I'd put into this Trail and my frustration at my impending failure). I tried to rationalize continuing, but even I knew my case was pretty weak.

Dave and I agreed on loose plans then: for me to exit at Marshall Pass, where we would see the next dirt road (FS-200) and I could likely hitch a ride to Poncha Springs. I'd give Dave the stove and we could divide up the food in the morning. If I had a miraculous recovery the next day, I could try and move 1 trail segment further to the Sargent's Mesa Trailhead at FS-855. But I think both Dave and myself knew that wasn't going to happen.
CT Day 28: A Parting of Ways

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 26: Reaching Monarch Pass

After a long march during a rather dreary morning and early afternoon, we finally reached the US-50 highway. From here we would hitch a ride West to the Monarch Mountain Lodge along the highway, stay the night, and pick up our resupply box(es). We had reached Monarch Pass a day earlier than planned, which made a possible rendezvous with Paul kind of difficult, but we knew we needed to make mileage.

Unfortunately, NOBODY offered us a ride from the Colorado Trail/US-50 junction the four miles up to the lodge, turning an easy 12 mile half day into a full day of hiking. We were shocked, scandalized and outraged that not one of the hundreds of cars passing us bothered to give us a ride. It probably didn't help that the rainy weather made us look wet, turning otherwise good Samaritans into anal-retentive yuppies worried about the upholstery in their cars. I'm also willing to bet most of these people had probably spent the last 40 minutes trying to pass up big trucks and RVs, and were therefore unwilling to fall back behind them.

Either way, we finally reached the Monarch Mountain Lodge, picked up our boxes, and got a room. We had a steak dinner and soaked in their hot tub. And we found the lodge to be quite reasonably priced considering its spectacular location.

We managed to finish the daunting task of sorting through our ENORMOUS 3 boxes of food. We had packed food for 3 people and still had almost TWICE what we needed. Now with only two people, much of it was going to get thrown away. We gave some of it away to some friends we made at the resort, and still shipped a lot of the food back.

After that I went outside for one last soak in the hot tub.

SHAMELESS PLUG!: The owner of the Monarch Mountain Lodge was also kind enough to let us stash three big boxes at his business free of charge and without any expectation of reciprocity. Pretty cool I thought! So if you ever find yourself around Salida, Poncha Springs, or Monarch Pass and you are in need of a place to stay, consider heading up Highway 50 just east of Monarch Pass. The accomodations are simple, but well maintained and reasonably priced. It would be an IDEAL location to stay in the winter if you were to spend a long weekend skiing on the slopes at Monarch.

CT Day 27: Approaching Marshall Pass

Report On CT Hikers from Andy's Fragments

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 25: Princeton Hot Springs

Trudging along. First beautiful, sunny day we've had in quite awhile. Almost too hot and sunny. We stopped at Princeton Hot Springs after 7 or 8 miles in the morning. My ankle had been bothering me some, and I was hoping the hot waters would help things somewhat. Dave was also eager for the chance to try out the waters.

Princeton Hot Springs lies near Buena Vista, and is the center of a small, overpriced resort facility at the foot of the enormous Mt. Princeton. The naturally heated waters reminded me of all the onsen hot springs I used to frequent in the Japanese countryside, although this one was decidedly American in style. なつかしいい!

After finishing about noon, we had one more small hill to climb (about 1500 feet) and then we made a long trek South in the direction of Monarch Pass. During the afternoon we managed to make tons of progress, 10 miles or so almost directly South West, making for a 16-17 mile day.
We camped early that evening, and while building a fire, Thatch showed up. This time though, April was nowhere to be seen. He was much more cognizant today, although he reported feeling only slightly better. He told us how April had left him in the dust that morning, and was probably already hitching a ride into Salida to pick up supplies. This surprised me a bit. Despite Thatch's recent lethargy, he had the more impressive thru-hiker's resume, so I figured April would struggle to keep up with him. According to Thatch though, April was just bounding with energy, and he was constantly struggling to stay with his blond counterpart.

Thatch left and came back to our camp only 3 minutes later to report sighting a "huge" black bear on the trail just up ahead. He reported that the bear probably weight 300-400 lbs and wasn't more than 150 yards away. Needless to say, we thought it prudent to cook at least that far AWAY from our tents and make sure we thoroughly cleaned our cookware.

CT Day 26: Reaching Monarch Pass

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 24: Leaving Buena Vista

We left Buena Vista today. We had another big climb up a hill that afternoon. Jenny Pyle was kind enough to give us a ride back to the trailhead. And after saying our thank you's and goodbyes, we proceeded on at a leisurely pace, and covering only 6 or 7 miles that afternoon.

So you could imagine our surprise when April came up on us! We thought she and Thatch had passed us 3 days ago! Apparently they went into town as well, although we missed them. Nevertheless, April was there and as chipper as ever, telling us about how Thatch had taken some medication and wasn't feeling so well.

15-20 minutes later Thatch showed up himself, and indeed, was looking much the worse for wear! To cure a headache or some other ailment, he had taken some 10 year old prescription medication his friend had given him long ago. The medication was evidently intended for severe seizures. Dazed, confused, and lethargic in every sense, Thatch wasn't doing so well!

Despite Thatch's medical disaster, they were both trying to reach the Princeton Hot Springs before dark, so they might soak their tired bones. April wasn't having much sympathy for Patch's lethargy and left him in the dust again after we finished talking. It finally registered with Thatch that April had again bounded off down the trail without him like a 9 year old on a sugar high. After that he slowly lurched forward and mumbled something about catching up with her. Hopefully he'll be OK!

CT Day 25: Princeton Hot Springs

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 23: Rolled into Buena Vista

Dave and I woke up early for the 3-4 mile hike out. After a long downhill stretch, sighting a black bear (I think), and crossing Middle Cottonwood Creek, we begin searching for a ride into the sleepy little mountain town of Buena Vista.

The scale of the Collegiate peaks is particularly huge, and these are no exception. A highway rolls out East of us and we began trudging down the highway trying to wave a ride. FINALLY an old man and his little dog pull over and take pity on the thru-hikers.

Now here I am in Buena Vista! Hiked 60 or so miles from Leadville and passed through the Mt. Massive and Collegiate Peaks Wilderness Areas. These are some BIG MOUNTAINS! Buena Vista lies to the East of the Collegiate Range in the Arkansas River Valley. Its known for spectacular sunshine, river rafting, and big sky. In many ways, Buena Vista reminds me of the Owen's Valley in California, a wide open valley hemmed in by massive mountains to either side. Even the rain shadow pattern of the Collegiate Peaks mirrors its Sierra Nevada counterpart.

We are also lucky here, as we're staying with longtime family friend, Jennifer Pyle. My parents knew the Pyle family in Denver long before I was ever born, and their daughter, Jennifer Pyle now runs the Bongo Billy's Coffee Shop in Buena Vista. She was kind enough to let us stay with her and her awesome dog, and even let us drive around her old 250 Ford. That's a ride for sure!
Shameless Plug: Check out Jenny's Bongo Billy's Coffee when you get to Buena Vista! You'll know that your great coffee (or sandwich) is produced using sustainable techniques and is just really good. You can find Bongo Billy's on the East side of the highway, when you drive North into town.
From here, Dave and I (and possibly Paul if we locate him) will head further South, leaving the Arkansas Valley. We'll be passing Mt. Princeton, Mt. Antero, and Mt. Shavano before crossing Monarch Pass. I do not expect to have internet access at our Monarch Lodge resupply point.

From Monarch, we enter an 8-9 day, 100 mile stretch to Creede, CO which will be our longest unsupported leg of the journey. Please keep us in your thoughts and prayers!
I have no idea who these people are, but this is likely to be your response after having Bongo Billy's coffee!

CT Day 24: Leaving Buena Vista

Update on CT Hikers from Andy's Fragments

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 22: Fishing at Harvard Lake

Another LONG day with another BIG CLIMB!

We spent most of the morning leapfrogging with April and Thatch, but they finally passed us up when we reached Harvard Lake and Dave wanted to give fishing 1 last shot before mailing his fishing gear home.
Harvard Lake actually consists of two lakes. Lower Harvard Lake is far more picturesque than the mud pit constituting the upper lake. Consequently that's where I spent most of my time. Dave divided his time between the two for a couple of hours, and managed to make his biggest number of catches for the trip. Unfortunately, they were all far too small to bother frying up.

So we kept going, descending 2000 feet into the valley of North Cottonwood Creek, and then ascending another 4000 feet up the slopes of Mt. Yale. By the time we re-entered the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness Area, we were exhausted. Climbing a 4500 feet after doing 12 miles that morning is NOT RECOMMENDED. We made a short descent along the Southern slopes of Mt. Yale before camping out with a view of Mt. Princeton.
Tomorrow we would roll into Buena Vista, our next resupply point. My ankle was continuing to bother me but it certainly wasn't slowing us down. Another 15 mile day, this one also with a big climb near the end. I hope it heals up a bit while we're in Buena Vista.

CT Day 23: Rolled into Buena Vista

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 21: Campfire with Thatch and April

We woke up to VERY LOUSY weather and knew that it might be a very difficult day. We eventually managed to get moving though. My ankle was bothering me again, and I was getting increasingly concerned about it. I could manage to hike on it without it slowing us down, but the pain concerned me.

Despite the great pace we were setting, I wasn't dealing well with the weather or my ankle, and I'm certain I wasn't the most pleasant company to be around either. We still managed to climb two really big hills (over 4000 ft) and make 15 or so miles that day. We also entered the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness area. The Trail passed through Clear Creek and its miserable RV campground in the morning, but reached Pine Creek and the Wilderness Area boundary that afternoon. The same uncanny phenomenon occurred: upon entering the Collegiate Peaks Wilderness, views improved considerably.

Unfortunately, the weather wasn't as cooperative. Our first glimpse of the sun didn't occur until we crested our second big climb of the day, along the ramparts of Mt. Harvard above treeline. Beautiful place though. We really didn't have reliable sunshine till we camped that evening at Morrison Creek. We did manage to dry off all our gear, and after Herculean effort, got a fire started with sopping wet wood.

Our mood improved considerably with the sunshine. The intense rain and drizzle of the day had cleaned the air throughout the whole valley, and the flawless cobalt sky improved my morale considerably. Just when things couldn't get much better, April and Thatch from the Leadville Hostel show up and we all laugh, joke, and chat well into the night. Thatch and April both gave us stories of trails from their homes back East. Thatch had done the John Muir Trail and the Appalachian Trail.

Dave and I had risked not pitching the tent, so that we might be able to sleep under the stars. By the time we went to sleep that night though, clouds had formed. When we heard thunder, Dave and I frantically raised the tent over our bags. Just in the nick of time, as a torrential downpour and thunderstorm started only minutes after we finished!

CT Day 22: Fishing At Harvard Lakes

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 20: Lance Armstrong at Twin Lakes

Dave and I left as early as we could so that we might be able to witness the Leadville 100 Bike Race. While we got a bit of a late start, we managed to make excellent time, averaging more than 3 miles per hour. We reached Twin Lakes reservoir sometime in the late morning, hoping to cheer on some of the racing folks we met in Leadville.

For the Leadville 100 Race this year, Twin Lakes was both the 40 mile race checkpoint and the 60 mile race checkpoint. Dozens of support crews stood out ready to assist their riders and hundreds of spectators watched and cheered for the riders coming in.

We ran into a group of women supporting one rider. After some small talk and hearing of our trail journey, they offered us fresh turkey sandwiches, gatorade, and snacks! Sometimes being a thru-hiker is pretty nice. They also told us that Lance Armstrong would be coming through in about half an hour. The world famous, seven time Tour de France winner was locked in a duel for first place with Gunnison, CO Native and six time Leadville 100 winner David Weins.

Lance Armstrong and David Weins eventually did roll through, to thunderous applause from all the bystanders. At this point David Weins was slightly ahead, with Lance Armstrong trailing just him. With only 40 miles to go, and with Lance's reputation, all the locals who favored Weins began fearing for the worst.
Dave and I left shortly after the big Armstrong commotion, walking the opposite direction of most of the cyclists, as this small portion of the CT near Twin Lakes Reservoir coincided with the race. All the fastest cyclists (all of whom were still far behind Weins and Armstrong). Dave and I started dancing as we walked through, and all the spectators started cheering for us as well! It was a great time.

Some guy asked where we were hiking from and we told him Denver. He immediately gave us both some brews. Turns out his Japanese wife was there with him to watch a friend race, so I had a few questions for her.

That afternoon we went for a swim on the OTHER side of Twin Lakes and later ran into Patch. Patch had gone into Twin Lakes for a resupply, and was passing us late that afternoon. Despite quitting early and watching the race, we managed to put away 14-15 miles.
As for the 2008 Leadville 100 MTB, turns out David Weins won! Weins came in a couple minutes ahead of Armstrong with a flat rear tire! Both riders however, beat the previous race record (held by Weins) by about 20 minutes. To add some perspective and context for our cycling readers, Weins appears to be a force to be reckoned with. He also beat Floyd Landis by 2 minutes in the 2007 Leadville 100 as well. Read the Yahoo Sports account here.

David Hanson's account of that Day:
"We hurried to Twin Lakes for the Leadville 100 bike race that was passing through. We made friends with a number of racers at the hostel in Leadville, so we thought it would be fun to cheer them on. It was quite the scene, tons of people line up along the route to cheer and catch a glimpse of Lance Armstrong! The big drama of the race was whether the Local guy, Dave Wiens could beat Lance. Dave had won the event the last 5 years. He even beat Floyd LAndis last year. When they passed through Lance was slightly ahead. The crowd roared as they jetted by. These guys were beasts. A day or two later we heard from Patch that Dave had beat Lance by a minute or two, and that Dave crossed the finish with a flat tire. Legendary!
The best part of the race was making friends with people and eating their food. Laurel made us turkey sandwiches and gave us gatorade and an apple. We were hiking out along the same route as the race and people started cheering for Tyler and I. Then these guys asked us where we were coming from... When we answered, "we just walked from Denver." They replied, "Holy S#%*, you guys need a beer!" That was a nice way to cap off the event and continue."

CT Day 21: Campfire With Thatch & April

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 19: Mending My Ankle

After yesterday's ascent of Mt. Massive, we had, against my better judgment, hiked four more miles South along the trail so that we might be positioned to climb Mt. Elbert today.

That is precisely what David did. I however, had done something to my left ankle and thought it prudent to stay off it for the morning. So I watched from the tent while David left to go do Mt. Elbert, the highest peak in Colorado. While I was annoyed with my ankle, I wasn't too disappointed about missing the climb, as I'd done Mt. Elbert years ago before leaving to Japan.

So I futzed around in the tent, reading a book David brought along: Thomas Merton's Thoughts in Solitude. I didn't finish it, nor did I think particularly much of it. Some of his essays were convicting, but others just didn't impress me all that much. So between that, cleaning dishes, napping, and answering nature's call, I managed to stave off boredom until David returned from Mt. Elbert.

David finally returns sometime afternoon and reports success! Despite his fatigue, I convince him to move our down the trail with me a little bit further, so that I could have a chance to do a little something that day. So we find a better spot near a brook a couple of miles further South. Who should come along? But April and Thatch, who report that the Leadville 100 Mountain Bike Race would be happening tomorrow near Twin Lakes! They were going on further to catch the race earlier the next morning and reported some more gossip on people we knew from the trail.

Shortly thereafter, a tall, skinny,old bean-pole of a man showed up wearing the titanic, conspicuously red, Gregory Denali Pro Backpack. He asked if he could join us, as there were no other decent campsites around and we didn't mind the company. It turns out his name was Dave, he was 72 years old, and he was hiking the Continental Divide Trail for the second time. This guy was now the biggest stud we'd met so far. This particular section of the Colorado Trail coincided with the CDT, so we'd been meeting CDT hikers from time to time, but none so old, and none with such massive expedition size packs on them! His pack probably had the volume to carry our combined gear. He also carried a 35 year old Svee stove that ran on gasoline. The Scandinavian design worked and sounded like a jet engine.


Anyways, he proved to be very pleasant company, showing off his old school gear and describing the CDT in wonderful detail. He had reportedly done the CDT the previous year and found it too stressful and difficult to really enjoy. So he wanted to return and do it again, this time more relaxed and experienced so that he could enjoy it more and focus less on route finding and other obstacles.
Later that evening, a third thru-hiker joined us: Patch. He showed up at 8 PM as the light began to disappear. The hyperactive Patch is evidently a triple-crowner, who decided to do the CT to get away from his divorce and to lose a significant amount of weight. This guy was certainly wired! He'd done over 20 miles that day and was still talking and yammering with Dave well into the evening. Well, Patch was talking mostly, Dave mostly politely listened. He gave some good advice for my ankle though: ibuprofen every day. "Vitamin I," he called it. It would keep down the swelling, he said, while allowing the body to heal itself. Not one to lightly dismiss advice from the experts, I started taking it that evening.

Later on the trail, we would see Patch's name at the trail head registers along the way. He was making fabulous time, frequently 25 or more miles a day.

CT DAY 20: Lance Armstrong At Twin Lakes

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 18: Mount Massive

We woke up as early as possible, leaving our gear about 1/2 mile from the Mt. Massive trailhead. We were moving by 7 or 7:30 that morning. A little later than we'd hoped, but early enough for safety. But the weather had us very concerned about our climb and our ascent. Fog and clouds surrounded us on all sides. We spent most of the morning wondering when, not if, it would rain on our parade.

Still, we continued on undaunted, determined to tick another mountain off of our list. For David, this would be his third or fourth "14er" if I'm not mistaken. For myself, it would count as the tenth Colorado "14er" I had climbed. I've also been up Mt. Whitney and White Mountain Peak in California.

To date I have climbed:

1. Pikes Peak
2. Windom Peak
3. Sunlight Peak
4. Mt. Evans
5. Grey's Peak
6. Mt. Princeton
7. Mt. Elbert
8. Mt. Beirdstadt
9. Torrey's Peak
10. Mt. Massive

Mt. Massive was, on the whole, much as I expected it to be. It definitely ranks among the easier Colorado Mountain's I've climbed. It still turned out to be a magnificent summit. While we were disappointed and concerned about the weather early on, things cleared up later in the morning. On the main trail, there is one final saddle to gain before ascending along a ridge to the North. The weather cleared just moments before we arrived at the saddle, giving us unobstructed views above the clouds. I hadn't such views since climbing Mt. Fuji in Japan.
While the clouds came and went for most of the afternoon, they parted at various times to give us views of everything around, both East and West. Most of the time though, we felt we were in an ocean of clouds.
We didn't start descending until 10:30 or so, after spending some time on the top. After descending, we had hoped to position ourselves better for Mt. Elbert tomorrow, but my ankle started bothering me significantly, so we only hiked 4 miles further South along the Colorado Trail.

CT Day 19: Mending My Ankle

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 17: Positioning ourselves for Mt. Massive.

Wild Bill himself drove us up to the CT Trailhead where we left off so that we might continue our journey South towards our ultimate destination, Durango. We only hiked 9 or so miles in and camped in the Mt. Massive Wilderness Area as we wanted to be perfectly positioned for tomorrow's ascent of Mt. Massive.

When I first thought about doing the trail, I knew it would be a great way to achieve my lifetime goal of climbing every 14,000 foot peak in Colorado. Many native Coloradoans share the dream of standing atop all the "14er's in the state, but far less actually get around to doing them all. I believe there are 52 "14er's" in the state of Colorado, and I've only climbed about 10 of them. I originally planned to climb about 5-10 of the 14ers in the Collegiate Peaks.

When the Colorado Trail passes through the Western side of the Arkansas Valley, several "14ers" become accessible to thru-hikers in this valley alone; some more accessible than others. They include:

1. Mt. Massive
2. Mt. Elbert
3. Mt. Harvard
4. Mt. Yale
5. Mt. Princeton
6. Mt. Shavano
7. Mt. Antero

While I thought I could get at least 5 of these, this was ultimately proving impractical, as the underestimated physical demands of carrying food and finishing the trail alone were already chipping away at our mountaineering ambitions. Timing the ascent of a 14er while simultaneously making significant progress on the trail also proved difficult. If we wanted to move 12 miles per day, we needed to either slowly kill ourselves by hiking significant distances AFTER an ascent, or severely limit trail progress and force ourselves to carry more food and take more time. Something had to give.

Either way, we are determined to get at least one big mountain in, and tomorrow its gonna be Mt. Massive. At 14,421 feet, Mt. Massive stands as the second highest in Colorado and the third highest in the lower 48 states (correct me if I'm wrong). The picture above shows Mt. Massive.

CT Day 18: Mount Massive

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 16: Chillin' in Leadville at 10,200 Feet

It is now Day 16 or 17 of our first Thru-Hike. Followers of our journey will wish to know that we have now hiked 156 miles on the Colorado Trail from Denver.

We've had some good times and seen some good things, but things are not all well. Our dear comrade and hiking partner Paul Brodar has suffered a knee injury of curious cause. He had to drop out after hiking 14 or so miles over the pass from Breckenridge to Copper Mountain. He's hoping it will heal and he'll be able to join us again in a week when we get our next resupply in Buena Vista. We're definitely missing Paul's company on the trail and by the fire. Here's to the Neutron Star!

Our next stop is in Buena Vista, 60 0r so miles to the South. Dave and I will hopefully be able to meet up with Paul there and continue on. However, Dave and I are very much looking forward to climbing Mt. Massive, Mt. Elbert, and possibly Columbia or Harvard. The Collegiate peaks are definitely going to rock (that's all they are anyway).

We've also met many new people, including this beautiful golden retriever. Enter Thatch and April, two new friends and the huge crazy crowd of Leadville 100 bikers and runners all staying at the Leadville Hostel. These people rock! Training for 100 mile mountain bike and running races respectively.

CT Day 17: Positioning Ourselves for Mount Massive

More On the Colorado Trail From Andy's Fragments

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 15: 3 miles to Leadville

Another easy day, this time we only hiked 3 miles to the trail head, where we would thumb a ride into Leadville. Dave and I sort of planned it this way so that we could maximize our rest day in Leadville. So on an unbelievably clear and beautiful morning, we descended from Bear Lake down to a valley system just North of the Twin Lakes reservoir.

Following a heated discussion about which highway to take, we determined that we were indeed on the correct road, it just wasn't the road with any traffic! Three cars passed us in two hours, and only 1 was traveling our direction. The fourth driver we saw finally took pity on us and drove us both into what remains of the once glorious mining town of Leadville, CO.

We stayed at the always hospitable Leadville Hostel, run by the famous "Wild Bill" who is quite legendary for his hospitality towards thru-hikers. And like Mountain Outfitters in Breckenridge, Wild Bill let us stash a resupply at his place free of charge!

At the time, the Leadville Hostel was hosting numerous athletes training for the Leadville 100 Running and Mountain Biking race. There were several other CT thru-hikers as well. We saw Paul's name on the guest register and wondered where he was. Later on at the local brewpub, we saw Paul walking back towards the hostel and shouted to him across the street.

CT Day 16: Chillin' in Leadville at 10,200 feet

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 14: Holy Cross Wilderness & Bear Lake

While we made great mileage yesterday, today turned out to be somewhat wasteful, finishing only 8 miles, as my knee was bothering me for most of the morning and Dave decided to go fishing. I doubt I was very pleasant to be around. Somehow, Dave managed to put up with me though, and we continued on at a slow pace.

In light of my knee, we figured it would be best to take it easy this day, and only hiked 8 miles. The highlight turned out to be entering the very Southern tip of the Holy Cross Wilderness Area. The unspoiled, old growth trees and rugged granite greeted us at every turn.

In the early afternoon we reached Bear Lake and set up a camp. And despite the ravenous mosquitoes, it turned out to be a fairly good location. After early afternoon rain clouds cleared, David tried his luck again with fishing at the lake, but it apparently wasn't meant to be. I layed low and tried to stay off my aching knee, hoping it would heal enough and not jeopardize my finishing the Colorado Trail.

CT Day 15: 3 Miles to Leadville

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 13: 17 Miles to Tennessee Pass

Our biggest mileage day so far, Dave and I cruised through to Leadville in an ambitious bid to simply get some mileage done. Besides crossing Kokomo Pass and treeline early in the morning, most of the rest of the scenery during this segment was somewhat, ho-hum. We got eaten alive by mosquitoes and flies along certain parts, passing mostly through endless "matchstick forests" along the CO-24 Highway to Tennessee Pass.

Both Dave and I were pleased with our early morning progress and the mileage we were making throughout the day, so we continued along, regrettably speeding past Camp Hale at 3+ miles an hour without so much as a photograph.

We did stop briefly at the 10th Mountain Division Memorial along the CO-24 Highway at Tennessee Pass, but stopped for very little other than that. I also got a shot of these huge charcoal ovens from the olden days.

CT Day 14: Holy Cross Wilderness & Bear Lake

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 12: Parting at Copper Mountain.

Paul, Dave and I left early that morning from the higher Western Flanks of Tenmile Range, hoping to Reach Copper Mountain with plenty of time for Dave and I to go further, divide up the food and supplies, and to give Paul a chance to find a ride to Leadville.

Paul's plan now consisted of heading to Leadville, hoping his knees would heal back up, and then jumping back in at some point further in the trail. At 11:00 or so when we finally reached Copper Mountain and the highway, Dave and I immediately started rummaging through our food, fuel and gear, giving Paul what we thought we wouldn't need. We dropped one of the stoves, much of the fuel, A LOT of food. The GPS Paul had been carrying also didn't make the cut, as we hadn't used it in days, and had never actually had a real need for the device.

Once finished, we said our goodbyes and Dave and I hurriedly rushed through the ultramodern Copper Mountain Ski Resort. It almost looked busier with mountain bikers, day hikers, and Midwesterners on vacation than it did with skiers in the winter. Fortunately, after numerous miles of dodging out of shape day hikers, mountain bikers, and an entire smelly cavalry of mounted tourists, we ascended into the pristine beautiful tundra near Janet's Cabin.
Janet's Cabin belongs to the 10 Mountain Division Hut System. During the Second World War, the US Army trained the 10th Mountain Division in this part of Colorado as a special unit for alpine and winter warfare. A system of huts, loosely modeled after those in Switzerland, were constructed to assist in training. After World War 2, Many of the 10th Mtn. veterans returned to Colorado and established the ski resorts that made the state famous. While I've never had more than a passing interest in the stories and lore surrounding the 10th Mountain Division, the Cabin and its wonderful setting definitely caught my attention. We should be passing by their former base, Camp Hale, sometime tomorrow afternoon! I'll definitely want to stop and stare.

Dave and I both took some great pictures.

CT DAY 13: 17 Miles To Tennessee Pass

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 11: Over the Divide to Copper Mountain

We finally departed Breckenridge, and now faced another climb over the Continental Divide. This would also be the first time the Colorado Trail coincided with the Continental Divide Trail. Despite this, the distance from Breckenridge to Copper Mountain was only 13 miles or so. We would be cresting Tenmile Range and would get some spectacular views.

On reaching the divide, we ran into and met a new friend, Justin Butts. Justin entertained us with hilarious stories about his travels to India.

Unfortunately, this also turned out to be the Day Paul's knees refused to let him go any further. He managed to make it over the divide, and claimed to be able to reach Copper Mountain, but David and I were very concerned about him. Luckily for him, we enjoyed the best sunset of the entire trip that evening.

CT Day 12: A Parting at Copper Mountain

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 10: Resting in Breckenridge

Sorry I haven't had a chance to update lately, but We've started our hike, and are now 11 days into our journey across Colorado. Check back when this is all over, as I will be making entries for each and every day of our 40 day journey, replete with photos, descriptions, and all sorts of crazy stories.

This is turning out to be far more difficult than I originally imagined. We've had a few setbacks, but nothing too serious. We're on schedule and very optimistic that we can finish. As for Breckenridge, I'm very much liking this place. A beautiful mountain town high in the Rocky Mountains, it attracts skiers all winter, and mountain bikers all summer.

In our journey, I must extend our gratitude to Mountain Outfitters here for holding our gear and giving us all sorts of help. You guys rock! Also, hospitality from the folks at the Fireside Inn is fantastic.

You can also see some photos from this part of our journey so far.

CT Day 10: Arrival at Breckenridge

CT Day 11: Over the Divide to Copper Mountain

The Colorado Trail Story

Arrival at Breckenridge Day 10

Arrived at Breckenridge early this morning. Luckily we didn't have to hitch a ride into town, as Summit County CO has a free bus system! SO, we got on the bus and booked the first cheap lodgings we could find. Fireside Inn Bed and Breakfast turned out to be a great place, and so we spent the afternoon getting sundry business done, eating hamburgers, and soaking in the hot tub.

We spent the evening with some new friends and wound up jumping around to all the night spots in Breckenridge (there aren't as many as one would think). But we needed a day of rest, so we decided to spend two days in town.

There also seemed to be some sort of Corvette convention or gathering going on. Seriously, I'd never seen so many of the muscle cars in my life! Another Corvette sat parked nearly every place you looked.

Also, a shameless plug for Mountain Outfitters here in Breckenridge! I had called them up a couple of weeks before we left and asked them if they could hold our food and supplies for us. Sympathetic to our cause, they readily agreed! So if you ever find yourself in need of outdoor gear or apparel in Breckenridge, look these guys up!

CT Day 11: Over the Divide to Copper Mountain

CT Day 10: Resting in Breckenridge

The Hikers Walk On, And On, And On in Andy's Fragments

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 9: Rainstorm and Getting Split Up

Longest hike yet! Over 18 miles today. The three of us would be proud of this except for the fact that it was NOT intentional. But more on that later.

We started off on one of the most beautiful mornings of our journey yet, with spectacular views of Mt. Guyot in excellent early morning light. Most of the morning would be downhill, and we correctly anticipated that we could make excellent time. We also ran into a volunteer trail crew with the Colorado Trail Foundation. They gave us fudge and refilled our water bottles.

The rest of that afternoon consisted of running up and down hills in a never ending thunderstorm. Dave and I went on ahead, as Paul often drags behind. We didn't think much of it until we'd reached our water source at about four in the afternoon. We waited 1.5 hours and STILL didn't find Paul, so we hurriedly went back to look for him when the rain finally let up. Luckily, we found him 3 miles back, looking for US! Dave and I apparently missed the agreed upon water source and overshot it by three miles!

Paul joined us at the point further along in the trial, and I ran ahead to get dinner ready. Despite this, we still didn't start eating until well after dark. The only bright side consisted of the paltry miles until we roll into our second resupply at Breckenridge sometime tomorrow.

CT Day 10: Arrival at Breckenridge

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 8: Jefferson Creek to Georgia Pass

Our first day on the Continental Divide proved to be quite nice, despite the lousy weather and dirt bikers tearing huge ruts in our beloved Colorado Trail. We got a slightly late start in the morning, and considering each of us wanted to pursue different things, we split up and agreed to rendezvous on the Divide near Georgia Pass.

I started off the fastest, because I wanted to climb the first large peak along the trail, Mt. Guyot. I set off on the fastest pace I could, and reached Georgia Pass at about 10:45 AM. Mt Guyot dominated the landscape from the trail, and I guessed at a route heading up the mountain's Southeast ridge. While only 13,370 feet, Mt. Guyot is still a mountain to be reckoned with. Steep talus covered slopes make for slow going and most of the mountain is very exposed. Got some great air! I was especially concerned about the storm clouds I saw brewing to the South West of me. With every step I took up the mountain, the cloud got darker, closer, and scarier.
One of the biggest danger's on Colorado's peaks is thunderstorms. Without trees to provide coverage, the risk of getting struck by lightning goes up tremendously. Moutaineers in Colorado are well advised to start their ascents at dawn (not 10:45). I climbed and scrambled up the steep ridge as fast as I could with my lungs screaming for air most of the way. And despite the great cardio workout, I knew in the back of my head I wouldn't outrun the storm. I imagine I reached the top around noon.
Once I reached the top, I didn't linger. The storm was coming my way and I should have gotten off the mountain 30 minutes ago. I snapped a bunch of pictures, shoved a granola bar in my mouth, and put on my rain gear. I put my camera back away, started down as fast as I could, and prayed for the best. It started raining, and then hailing, making the rocks slick with water. My descent now slowed to a snail's pace, I looked around at the wildly exposed ridge I was on. For any lighting that wished to strike, I stuck out like a sore thumb!
Somehow though, despite all the rain and the endless thunder and lightning behind me, I managed to make it back down to the pass, when the weather finally let up. I found Paul and Dave sometime later near a lake below a snowfield, fixing a fire to keep the mosquitoes at bay. It was only two in the afternoon, but none of us had the energy for anything more than naps and futzing around the campsite.
The sun came out later in the afternoon, giving us a great opportunity for pictures. Dave and Paul spent some time laughing about a certain topical skin care product.

CT Day 9: Rainstorm & Getting Split Up

The Colorado Trail Story

CT Day 7: Kenosha Pass to Jefferson Creek

An easy day by any standard, we only hiked 6-7 miles from Kenosha Pass up to Jefferson Creek. Dave had been longing to get some fishing in, and considering we hadn't gotten started until nearly lunchtime, there wasn't any good reason to go further. We also didn't want to start a big hill late in the afternoon. Dave fished while Paul and I hoped and prayed for a trout dinner.

There also appeared to be a mountain biking race going on. TONS of mountain bikers were coming through the trail. I have a lot of mixed feelings about this. Bike tires tear up the trail and make deep ruts down the middle of the trail, messing up the stride of hikers. Hikers are either forced to put one foot directly in front of another (like on a tightrope) or step outside the trail altogether. I blame mountain bikers as the culprit for the blisters on the outide of my feet and those annoying times when I have to give my feet a rest and walk off the trail.

CT Day 8: Jefferson Creek to Georgia Pass

The Colorado Trail Story